My Dad’s Old Yellow Screwdriver

I discovered this ratty old screwdriver in a box of my Dad’s old tools.

It seemed appropriate to restore it to its former glory.

Over the years he used it, this was probably not used so much as a screwdriver, but more as a general purpose – poke – lever – tweak – stir – device!

I cleaned off all the layers of paint and rust and grime, filed the pointy end back nice and square so that it worked as a screwdriver again, sanded it with fine paper, and applied WD40.

A simple little project, but a nice memory to have of my Dad, who taught me how to work with tools when I was very young.

Experiments with Rust

This weekend, I discovered the joys of electric rust removal.

I used a glass baking dish, a battery charger, some plain tap water, washing soda, and an old bit of steel.

The results were really quite amazing.

The rust just disappeared in a flurry of bubbles.

A little bit of brushing and light sanding brought it up all nice and shiny.

A lot easier than rust converter.

$3.85 for 1kg of soda. I probably used 1/50th of it, roughly 7cents.

Restoring a Cold Chisel

This weekend I revived my father’s cold chisel. Not a spectacular device, but amazingly useful.

A cold chisel is traditionally used by blacksmiths to cut into cold steel – mainly for cutting thick steel sheet.
(A “hot chisel” is used to cut iron and steel while still in the forge or soon after)

My father had used this for various projects over the years – he probably bought it some time in the 50’s or 60’s – and I recently came into possession of it. Banged up well and truly – mushroomed on the top, and dented at the cutting tip.

I used an angle grinder to remove the mushroomed top, and the bench grinder to shape the hardened tip.

Blue “hammered finish” paint was the best finish for this project as it hides the dents and scratches really well, as well as being a very traditional finish for tools like this.

Vintage Soldering Iron

This weekend, I gave new life to an old soldering iron.

It belonged to my grandfather, then to my father – I remember him firing up the kerosene blowtorch when I was a kid.

It’s a remarkably simple tool. Basically a lump of copper on an iron stick with a wooden handle so you don’t burn your fingers.

I was surprised how difficult it was to file the copper. The steel shaft could have been made shinier, but at some point I realised it would look better with a few little dings and pitting, than trying to make it look new.

I was originally going to finish the handle with polyurethane or epoxy. Nope, I thought that beeswax was a better finish for the vintage.

blowtorch

 

Now I’m on the lookout for an old blowtorch like this !

Starting an Aberdale 1947 motorbike after 62 years in a shed

After 62 years in a shed, we get an Aberdale Autocycle to run again!

It might look rough around the edges, but it is now officially a running machine.

Built by the Aberdale firm of London between 1947 & 1949, this Villiers Junior powered 98cc autocycle was typical of lightweights built during the immediate postwar era.

The 98cc Villiers engine hung from the frame and it had petroil lubrication, direct lighting and blade girder forks.

It had basic brake, clutch, throttle, decompressor controls, a bulb horn, drum brakes and a speedometer.

The motorcycles were manufactured in the Bown factory in Tonypandy in Wales. In 1949 they were re-badged and marketed under the Bown label.

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Maintaining a Tenon Saw

My tenon saw started to leave dirty marks on timber.

Time to clean things up.

It still cuts just fine, so the teeth don’t need sharpening.
All I did was remove the rust and sand it a bit.
But now it’s not an eyesore, and I can cut cleanly with confidence again.

I guess technically this is a Veneer Saw, since it has the extra teeth on the top leading edge (so you can start a cut in the middle of the sheet).
But I’ve always called it my tenon saw.

Restoring Vintage Vernier Calipers

This week, I restored a set of vintage vernier calipers, made in Spain around 50 years ago.

These ones read metric and inches, and can measure outer and inner sizes as well as depth.

I’ve had these for decades, and they accumulated a lot of rust and gunk.

The movement had become stiff and uneven.

So I cleaned them, derusted them, filed and polished them back to new condition.

Brakes (front)

Here’s the condition of the front brakes when I got the bike.
Despite appearances the brakes actually worked.

I bought a new disk rotor and disk pads, and rode it like that for a year or so.

I replaced the hand lever and hydraulics with an eBay unit.

But I definitely bought the hydraulic line from a local professional supplier (it cost more than the original bike, but I’d like to know that my brakes will work in an emergency)

As an added bonus, the shiny braided finish works well with the brushed metal tank. It’s all about the aesthetics.